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About Pearls

Pearls are the most organic gems and given by nature. The mollusc of an oyster or a mussel secretes layers of nacre around an irritant (which becomes the nucleus) and grows into a pearl. A pearl’s structure comprises mostly calcium carbonate.

Pearls are classified as Natural or Cultured. For natural pearls, the irritant enters the mollusc by the act of nature. For cultured pearls, men introduced an irritant into an oyster or mussel. Nowadays, over 95% of the world pearl production is cultured.

Freshwater & Saltwater

Cultured freshwater pearls (mainly in China, Japan and USA) are grown in mussels, each of which can grow between 10 to 20 pearls. The irritant is usually a piece of mantle tissue from another mollusc. Freshwater pearls have longest culturing periods (2-6 years), as they are all solid nacre -- freshwater pearls have been used to make Pearl Powders in China for hundred years to enhance health and beauty.

Cultured saltwater pearls are grown in oysters, each of which can grow one pearl. The irritant is usually a hollow bead nucleus of mussel shell and a piece of mantle tissue to speed up the growth. Saltwater pearls are sometimes cultured for only 6 months, resulting in thin nacre, which will not last a lifetime, and they weight much lighter than freshwater pearls at the same size. (For example, the minimum thickness of nacre for Tahiti pearls to export is 0.8mm, and Akoya pearls 0.4mm). There are 2 types of saltwater pearls: South Sea pearls (mainly in Thailand, Indonesia, Philippines, French Polynesia, Tahiti and northern Australia) and Akoya pearls (mainly in Japan and China).

Pearl 5Ss

Like diamonds’ 4Cs (Color, Clarity, Carat and Cut), pearls have 5Ss (Shape, Surface, Shininess, Size and Shade).

For quality purpose, pearls are graded in 3Ss - Shape, Surface and Shininess.

Shape

Pearls come in 3 groups of shapes:

Round: A perfect round pearl is the most valuable.

Semi-baroque: not round but symmetrical, including off-round, half round, potato, button, pear, drop, egg and ovals.

Baroque: neither round nor symmetrical.

Surface

The fewer blemishes a pearl has on its surface, the more valuable it is. Blemishes are little marks, bumps, scars or holes.

Shininess

The quality of a pearl’s nacre gives its shinning quality:

High shininess pearls show clear reflections.

Low shininess pearls appear milky or chalky.

We grade pearls in following categories according to above 3Ss.

AAA: Round Shape, No-blemish Surface and High Shininess.

AA: Semi-baroque Shape, No-blemish Surface and High Shininess.

A: Round or semi-baroque Shape, few-blemish surface and high shininess.

All other pearls are for jewelry accessories or made into Pearl Powders.

Size

The size of the irritant (like the size of the bead nucleus for saltwater pearls), as well as the length of time in the shell (like the culturing years for freshwater pearls), will determine the size of the cultured pearl.  

Freshwater pearls range from 3mm to 14mm.

South Sea pearls range from 8mm to 18mm.

Akoya pearls range from 4mm to 10mm.

 

How rare is AAA round freshwater pearls?

 

Out of 1000 kilograms of freshwater pearls (or about 2.5 million pearls), there are 

about 70 pieces of 7-8mm AAA round pearls. The ratio drops to less than 5 pieces 

of 11-12mm. It is extremely rare to see AAA round pearls above 12mm. The biggest 

AAA round pearl found in China is 19.8mm in white and valued at USD80,000.

 

Shade

Cultured pearls have various natural shades and colors. The type of oyster or mussel is a key determinant in colors. The color also derives from foreign contaminants in the nacre. 

Freshwater pearls typically have colors of white, pink and lilac.

South Sea pearls typically have colors of white, silver, gold and black.

Akoya pearls typically have colors of white, yellow and gray.  

Weast only sells natural color pearls. If you found any pearl you bought from Weast is dyed, we will DOUBLE refund your purchase.

 

 

 

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